淺草、台場、新宿、涉谷（番外篇：河口湖）
在東京都的最後三天，終於從遠得要命的青葉台搬到秋葉原附近，便從淺草開始把先前跳過的市區觀光打卡點走一輪；但臨走前的河口湖一日遊，只看到富士山腳，還淋得一身濕差點回不了東京！Asakusa, Odaiba, Shinjuku, Shibuya (Plus, Kawaguchiko)
Last 3 days in Tokyo, finally we moved from the far far away Aobadai to Akihabara, so we started our Tokyo sightseeing which we have skipped before; but the Kawaguchiko tour on the day before we leave Tokyo, was miserable and wet—could not see the Mt. Fuji at all!淺草 / あさくさ/ Asakusa
掛著紅通通的大燈籠，雷門是淺草最鮮明的地標，穿過充滿土產店的仲見世通，商家們以火紅的楓葉表示秋天的到來，在湛藍的天空為背景下顯得格外醒目。
說來也有趣，這趟旅行以時代祭與鞍馬火祭兩大慶典為目標，卻在各處也撞見不同節慶表演；在橫濱中華街巧遇閱兵遊行後，沒料到這天（１０月１８日）是淺草寺的菊供養会，同時有金龍の舞（きんりゅうのまい）的演出，真是名符其實的慶典之旅！
金龍之舞源於淺草寺文獻記載，觀音出現時「金龍在空中飛舞，一夜之間帶來整片的松樹林。」，於60年代本堂重建後便以此為題材，用金龍飛舞來象徵帶來作物豐收與財富；而整個遊行從寺內一路到仲見世通，像台灣的舞龍舞獅一般，金龍也會在店家門口舞動為他們招來好運。
在廟會活動的加持下，原本就香火鼎盛的淺草寺更為擁擠了。許多外國遊客也入境隨俗的禮拜，看起來相當虔誠，更有不少人圍在香爐旁，不停地把煙往身上攬，祈求神明能帶治癒身體上的痼疾；這讓我想起小丸子裡她跟爺爺猛把煙往頭上燻的那一幕，轉身跟L先生說這煙能讓你變聰明，快把頭放進香爐吧（推）。
離開擁擠的淺草寺後散步到吾妻橋旁，隅田川的另一側是截然不同的現代地標。問了身旁的L先生看得出天空樹旁的建築是什麼嗎？是他在熟悉也不過的飲料當然立馬回答，也對日本人將摩天大樓蓋成啤酒的幽默感到驚奇。但我們都不明白一旁「倒下的金色大便」意味著什麼，Asahi官網上說明這是法國設計師Philippe Starck的傑作：黑色的建築是SUPER DRY會館，屋頂上的「火焰圖騰」象徵Asahi品牌精神⋯⋯看來連法國人都看不懂這幽默啊（笑）。
逛完了淺草周邊時間也還早，便前只有五分鐘車程的上野阿美橫町。阿美橫町除了賣便宜的衣物藥妝外，另一部分則是販賣生鮮食材，也不乏各式餐廳小吃不怕肚子餓；如果逛膩了市區的連鎖服飾與藥妝，來這裡挖寶或買土產也是不錯的選擇。
A big red lantern hanging on the Kaminarimon Gate, is the famous landmark of Senso Temple (Senso-ji); passed through the Nakamise Street (Nakamise-dori), stalls beside have decorated with the red maple leafs for the coming autumn, looks vivid as the blue sky is the perfect background.
We were lucky to met another event here—The Golden Dragon Dance (Kinryu no mai). This festival held on 18 October at Senso Temple every year; a 18 m, 88 kg dazzling golden dragon dancing with festive music, for bringing the luck of harvest and wealth to the people.
The dragon goes around the Senso temple and also the Nakamise Street outside, the crowded temple and street were even more because of the festival. The hall in Senso temple was full go people, even foreign tourists were also praying as a local. It says that bring the smoke from the incense burner on you body, could make you healthy, also cure the part of illness on your body; maybe next time put the smoke on your head, see if it could your brain works better?
After the overcrowded Senso temple, we walked to Azuma Bridge (Azumabashi) nearby for some fresh air, there were some modern landmark buildings just cross the Sumida river. I asked Monsieur L what’s the building next to Tokyo Skytree looks like? One of his favourite drink, obviously could answered me straight away…This amber building belongs Asahi Beer, and the black building next to ‘the beer’ with a weird thing on it, was designed by a french designer Philippe Starck; the golden ‘Flame’ on the roof presents the spirit of Asahi. Do you think they looks like a beer and a flame?
If you comes to Asakusa, you can also visit Ueno, which’s only needs 30 minutes walking from Asakusa, and there’re lot of shops along the way; go to Ameyoko Mall (Ameyoko Shotengai) for some cheap souvenirs and food stalls.
淺草寺 Senso Temple
http://www.senso-ji.jp
金龍の舞 Golden Dragon Dance
https://www.gotokyo.org/tc/kanko/taito/event/kinryuunomai.html
阿美橫町 Ameyoko Mall
https://www.gotokyo.org/tc/kanko/taito/spot/y_001.html
台場 / お台場 / Odaiba
到了傍晚時分，距離我們和朋友約定的晚餐時間還有幾個小時；正愁著去哪看夜景殺時間好，靈機一動想到日劇和漫畫裡常出現的約會聖地——台場，趁機去體會下傳說中的浪漫夜景。從新橋站搭乘自動駕駛的列車百合海鷗號，一旁的車流一起上下交流道和彩虹大橋，也是很特別的體驗。
我們從台場站下車，沿著御台場海濱公園一面欣賞東京灣的夜景、一面散步回上個車站；一路上與百貨公司和餐廳並肩而行，也有許多人特地來台場用餐、享受夜生活。從台場望向彩虹大橋的景緻真的十分迷人——橋下五顏六色的遊船點綴著水面，大橋身後還有閃爍的城市夜景陪襯（當時竟完全沒發現入鏡的東京鐵塔）。
見證了約會聖地的魅力後，我們回到淺草和長居日本友人敘舊，在這間本地人推薦的酒膳屋 moon，結束傳統與現代交錯的台東區＆港區觀光。註：酒酣耳熱之下就沒有產出食記了，不負責任的附上食べログ介紹連結供大家參考（逃）。
Before we met our friends back in Asakusa still have couple hours left, so we took the Yurikamome Line to Odaiba—one of the popular dating spots in Tokyo, for the waterfront night view and kill time.
The Odaiba Seaside Park has awesome views of boats passing through the Tokyo bay, especially to watch the Rainbow Bridge light up and the colourful reflects at night; you can also see the Tokyo tower behind the Rainbow Bridge. Would love to coming back next time, to see Odaiba’s another face during the day. After enjoyed the amazing night view, have headed back to Asakusa to met my friends, and have a Izakaya style dinner with Japanese rice wine at Shuzenya_moon.
百合海鷗號 Yurikamome Line
http://www.yurikamome.tokyo/
御台場海濱公園 Odaiba Seaside Park
https://www.gotokyo.org/tc/kanko/minato/spot/s_47.html
酒膳屋_moon Shuzenya_moon
http://tabelog.com/en/tokyo/A1311/A131103/13016896/
涉谷 / 渋谷 / Shibuya
翌日早上人還在宿醉。清醒後，L先生指著網站上的照片問「這個很多人的十字路口在哪裡？」對他而言，那畫面正式東京都會的寫照，還嚷著要在人潮裡拍照給遠在法國的鄉親們看；於是我們就出發去涉谷了，對，就是去拍你腦海裡的那個畫面。
想拍到完美的十字路口還真是不容易，有人說從TSUTAYA百貨二樓的星巴克是不錯的拍攝地點，不過人滿為患要排隊的。L先生很有創意的要我從星巴克拍他站在人群裡的畫面，殊不知是在整我這個攝影師（是在玩找威利嗎？！）幸好是有找到人頭但根本來不及對焦，隨便交差了事閃人去（煙）
After a lazy hangover morning, Monsieur L said that he wants to see the world famous X crossing in Shibuya, and take some photo there, so we heading to the city centre. Monsieur L said he wants a photo that he is in the middle when people crossing the street, so we tried to find a good spot online—the Starbucks cafe on Shibuya TSUTAYA second floor.
But when we arrived, it was already full of people who wants the same view on photos; after ‘line up’ finally its my turn. But when I tried to do it as Monsieur L wants, it wasn’t easy at all…absolutely ‘Find Wally’!
渋谷のスクランブル交差 Shibuya Crossing
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/japan/tokyo/sights/neighbourhoods-villages/shibuya-crossing
新宿 / Shinjuku
既然都來到了市中心，就沿著山手線往原宿、新宿等處走馬看花；等到天色漸暗，便前往昨天從友人口裡得知的無料高樓夜景景觀台——東京都廳展望室。因為沒有做功課一開始找不到路（有警衛隔著玻璃跟我們比手畫腳，結果還是不懂要我們走去哪⋯⋯），才發現要從第一本廳大樓的1樓搭乘專用電梯上去。雖然是免費的觀景台，但對拍出來的夜景照仍十分滿意，想省錢的話不妨來這吧！
看完了夜景就到新宿西口附近覓食，吃飽喝足後帶L先生到歌舞伎町附近晃晃，想說上次來看到很多牛郎，沒想到這次一個都沒看到只有保安們。不過呢，在小巷子裡漫無目的的走，總會發現新事物；意外踏進這氣氛很不同的小天地——花園黃金街。幾條窄窄的巷弄和比鄰的房舍們，從許多小招牌顯示這裡有密密麻麻的店在舖營業著；有酒吧、有餐廳，還有不知道做什麼、氣氛很微妙的店面。但這裡燈光昏暗，路上也沒什麼人特別是觀光客，膽小的我們逛一圈後就速速離去。
Since we were already in the town, let’s wander along the Yamanote Line, waiting for the darkness comes, to see our very last night view in Tokyo. Last night my friend have told me that, we can enjoy the night view from the Tokyo city hall skyscraper, and the greatest thing is—entry free! The Tokyo city hall (Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building) observatory is located at the Building 1, have to take the Observatory Elevator at the first floor.
After filled up our tummies in a Japanese BBQ place, we wandered in this vibrant 'after-dark' entertainment district, to see the Shinjuku night life. We have found a place called Shinjuku Golden Street (Golden-gai), those small alleys used to be the black market during the war time; now there’re bar & bub and dining place, but you still can feel the historical atmosphere here.
東京都廳展望室 Tokyo City Hall Observatory
https://www.gotokyo.org/tc/tourists/info/observatory.html
新宿ゴールデン街（花園黃金街）Shinjuku Golden Street
http://www.gotokyo.org/tc/kanko/shinjuku/spot/s_170.html
番外篇：河口湖 Kawaguchi Lake
看富士山是L先生此行的重要標的，因為沒裝備去爬山所以決定到河口湖一覽她的風貌，起了個大早到新宿站搭乘較平價的公路巴士。不料老天不賞臉，一抵達河口湖竟是陰雨綿綿的天氣，雲霧大到整座富士山都不見了（已哭）；而且早上市區天氣很好，沒準備雨具或多帶些衣物，結果兩個人冷到都沒心情看風景了。
既然人都來了，雖然運氣很差但總不能什麼事都不做吧！賭一把也許天氣會好轉，硬是買了纜車+船+巴士的遊湖套票；只記得先去搭了船（因為很冷窩在樓下船艙），然後搭了纜車（車廂不斷廣播好吵，還有天上山公園就是一個很商業化的地方），最後搭了巴士到美術館（當然是避寒），回到生活館後稍作停留。結論：沒有富士山景的加持，一切都是枉然（尤其在這種濕冷鬼天氣裡）。
最後還因為搞錯班次，差點沒車回東京⋯⋯這個悲慘的河口湖之旅，已重挫我倆此行的旅遊興致，回東京的路上我心已經在京都了，我需要古都的溫暖慰藉（泣）。
Visit the Mt. Fuji (Fujiyama) was one of the must do for us (especially for Monsieur L), but we didn’t have equipment for hiking this time, so we decided to follow the reviews online, to see Mt. Fuji from Kawaguchi Lake (Kawaguchi-ko), which is easy access and have the awesome view of mountain and lake. On the day before we leave Tokyo, we took the highway bus from Shinjuku to Kawaguchiko/Mt. Fuji, which was cheaper than train, also bought the tour package for sightseeing bus, boat and cable car.
But the miserable day has began just right after we arrived in Kawaguchi Lake—the weather turned into cloudy and rainy, could not see the Mt. Fuji at all! Then we got cold and wet, no mood for sightseeing anymore; what else, we were almost lost our bus go back to Tokyo, putain…
Anyway, no Mt. Fuji this time! On the bus back to Tokyo, my soul has already went to our next place…Kyoto, my favourite city in Japan.
富士急行巴士 Fujikyu Highway Bus
http://bus-tw.fujikyu.co.jp/highway/detail/id/1/#fare
遊湖巴士路線 Kawaguchi Lake Sightseeing Bus
http://bus-tw.fujikyu.co.jp/heritage-tour/detail/id/1/
河口湖天上山公園 Cable Car & Lake Sightseeing Tours
http://www.kachikachiyama-ropeway.com/tc/
旅遊日期 Travel dates：18~20 Oct 2014
[地圖 map]
[相片集 album]
[東進西出 12 DAYS秋遊日本 read more]
京都 行程 預算 住宿心得 Travel Plan & Budget
明治神宮 & 橫濱一日遊 Meiji Shrine & Yokohama Day Tour
鎌倉半日遊 Kamakura Day Tour
東京打卡點 Tokyo Sights
京都 鞍馬火祭 Kurama Fire Festival
京都 時代祭 Festival of the Ages
嵐山一日遊 & 金閣寺 Arashiyama Day Tour & Golden Pavilion
京阪滿喫 Kyoto & Osaka
Comments
Post a Comment