我們的12 Days遊日本終於來到下半場，除了重頭戲時代祭與鞍馬火祭外，趁著楓葉轉紅享受京阪秋色，在涼爽的天氣裡痛快地周遊關西兩大城，體驗現代與古都的衝突感。
Our 12 days in Japan finally came to the second half, beside excited for the highlights of this trip—Festival of the Ages and Kurama Fire Festival in Tokyo, also enjoyed the beautiful autumn colours, and experienced the different between modern and historical face of Kansai region.
嵐山一日遊＆金閣寺
嵯峨野・嵐山站（トロッコ） → 常寂光寺 → 化野念佛寺 → 嵯峨野・嵐山站（トロッコ） → 竹林の道 → 天龍寺 → 渡月橋 → 嵐電・嵐山站（京福電鐵） → 駅の足湯 → 嵐電・北野白梅町站（京福電鐵） → 金閣寺
這裡共有四個名為「嵐山」的車站：嵯峨野觀光列車、京福嵐電、JR山陰本線以及阪急嵐山線（位於渡月橋以南），小心別搭錯路線囉！
Arashiyama day tour & Kinkakuji
Saga/Arashiyama Stn #1 → Jojakkoji → Adashino Nenbutsuji → Saga/Arashiyama Stn #1 → Bamboo Grove → Tenryuji → Togetsukyo → Arashiyama Stn #2 → Station Foot Bath → Kitano Hakubaicho Stn #2 → Golden Pavilion/Kinkakuji
There are 4 different 'Arashiyama' stations, make sure don’t get the wrong one:
#1 Sagano Scenic Railway (Toroko LIne)Get to know the meaning of Japanese noun by spelling:
#2 Randen Tram (Keifuku Line)
#3 JR San-In Line
#4 Hankyu Arashiyama Line
-ji = buddhist temple
-jinja / -gu = shrine
-yama = mountain
-gawa = river
-kyo = bridge
嵯峨野トロッコ小火車 / Sagano Scenic Railway (Toroko Line)
每位來京都觀光的旅人，少說都會搭一次復古的トロッコ小火車、來趟嵯峨野的鐵道之旅；此行為了L先生當然要重返這個打卡點，我也樂得在山裡吸收芬多精、欣賞嵐山初秋的景色（上次來是綠油油的夏天，可惜沒機會搭到保津川遊船）。
以我上次的經驗來說，覺得單程體驗トロッコ已足夠，所以我們在京都車站搭成JR山陰本線，在JR的馬堀站下車，再走到トロッコ亀岡站搭乘觀光小火車（車站有告示，步行約十分鐘）；人潮多懶散的我們找到位子就坐，也就無緣一睹傳說中半露天的第五節車廂了（限當天現場購票）。
Sagano Scenic Railway is definitely on every Kyoto-visitor’s bucket list in a Arashiyama day tour; a cozy way to enjoy the changing Seasons next to the mountain and river, in the vintage Toroko Train. We got this chance to see the leafs turns brown, if you visit here during the summer, will be brilliant to try the river boat ride on Hozugawa!
If you don’t want to take the scenic railway for return (the view might pretty much the same), you can do it oneway like us: Take the JR San-In Line from Kyoto Stn (toward Arashiyama) to Umahori Stn, then follow the sighs walk about 10 minutes to Kameoka Station(Toroko Line), and take the Sagano Scenic Railway to Arashiyama Stn.
嵯峨野－保津川－亀岡 / 全票 Adult ¥620
http://www.sagano-kanko.co.jp/
常寂光寺 / Jojakkoji
去年夏天來嵐山的半日遊只參觀了天龍寺，這次趁著初秋來賞楓名所常寂光寺賭賭運氣，寺裡楓葉雖轉黃但仍遠不到火紅，好處是不用人擠人可以享受寧靜的禪意，在多寶塔後方可從高處一覽嵐山市區景緻。
Last summer I have been to Arashiyama but only visited one temple, so this time we came to Jojakkoji—one of the famous place for the brilliant autumn foliage in Arashiyama. Unfortunately the leafs just about turning brown, still far from red as we thought, but still felt pleasant to experience the quiet peace here, and see the Arashiyama town from a high position, before here have full of the tourists.
京都市右京区嵯峨小倉山小倉町3
9：00〜16：30 / 全票 Adult ¥400
http://www.jojakko-ji.or.jp/
化野念佛寺 / あだし野念仏寺 / Adashino Nenbutsuji
被網路上滿是佛像的神秘景色給吸引，我們就大膽地跑來了，後來才知道這曾是很不得了的地方（抖）。這個地區是自平安時代以來的墓地，尤其以風葬（天葬）的習俗出名；寺裡八千多尊的佛像原先和無名屍骨散落在化野地區，在19世紀初期才被集合至寺裡供養。
其實不要想太多、同在我們不知情的狀況下參訪，化野念佛寺的景色是相當迷人且震撼的。不用說，那壯觀的石像群烙印腦海中，步道兩旁綠色絲絨般的苔蘚、還有後山一條私藏的竹林小徑；這兒的秋意比常寂光寺更濃，橘黃色的葉子、石像、石燈與後方略泛黃的山頭，成了此行的嵐山印象。
Adashino Nenbutsuji actually isn’t a must-see attraction, but it’s certainly interesting and cause huge amount of stone statues here make unusual photographs, and that’s exactly why we were here. But we didn't know about the histories…this area was a massive cemetery since the Heian period, where people left the bodies here for ‘Sky Burial’; at the early of 19 century, about 8,000 Buddha statues have been collected for help the souls of dead could rest in peace.
Event though the histories of Adashino Nenbutsuji are a bit scary, but just like the saying the stone statues do makes cool photos, also, there’s a bamboo grove hided at the backyard of the temple. The grassy moss like the rug for those tiny statues, with the golden and orange leafs made a wonderful picture printed in my mind, was much impressive than the last temple we have visited.
京都市右京区嵯峨鳥居本化野町17
9：00〜16：30 / 全票 Adult ¥500
http://www.nenbutsuji.jp/
天龍寺 / Tenryuji
*世界遺產 World Heritage*
天龍寺創立者為足利尊氏，為了弔唁後醍醐天皇而設；天龍寺規模相當廣大，在「京都五山」中位居第一，在1994年被入世界遺産名單之中。上回的世界遺產巡禮看見了綠意盎然的天龍寺，這次染上秋色的曹源池庭園更讓人驚艷，從方丈望著池面倒影與山景，真的是看多久都不嫌膩！☛ 京都世界遺產一覽 World Heritage Sites in Kyoto
Tenryuji is the most well-known temple in Arashiyama region, it was the top of the ‘Kyoto-gozan’(The Five Great Zen Temples), and also registered as a world heritage site. Beside of the historic importance, Tenryuji is also famous for the Japanese garden, especially when the Sogenchi Teien (Sogen Pond Garden) surround by the brilliant autumn colours, I could just sitting there all day for the view!
京都府京都市右京区嵯峨天龍寺芒ノ馬場町68
8：30～17：30 / 全票 Adult ¥500
http://www.tenryuji.com/
竹林の道 / Chikurin no Michi (Bamboo Grove)
從大河內山莊、經天龍寺到野宮神社，兩側高聳竹林延伸約兩百米長的步道，讓人有時間凝結的錯覺。只是跟我去年夏天看到的景色差不多，秋天來觀光的人潮倒是多了許多；雖然天龍寺旁的竹林較高大壯觀，礙於人來人往實在不好取景，上面這張其實是在化野念佛寺照的！別忘了順道參訪有悠久歷史的野宮神社，往嵐電嵐山站的路上更有不少小吃與餐廳，一定要試試有名的古都芋本舖（天龍寺與往車站大馬路的轉角）！
If ask people about they impression of Kyoto, guess a picture of walking in the bamboo forest would shows up in many people’s mind, it’s one of the most photographed sights in Kyoto. Here’s a brilliant way to paired with a visit to Tenryuji, cause when you exit from the north gate of the temple, simply take a left and you will be in the bamboo grove straight away.
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| (Source: flickr user [agustinrafaelreyes]) |
渡月橋 / Togetsukyo
對於渡月橋的歷史與春秋兩季的景緻略有耳聞，但看到它本尊時仍難掩失望⋯⋯橋上滿載觀光客、又少了背後楓紅或春櫻的支撐（橋本身沒有亮點啊），連拍照都懶得拍了（上圖來自Flickr）。
Togetsukyo has been a landmark in Arashiyama for over 400 years, also be famous for the spectacular scenery of cherry blossoms in spring and the autumn foliage. Maybe the leafs still far from red at the moment, we didn't feel that impressive like other sights we have visited today.
嵐山溫泉「駅の足湯」 / Arashiyama Onsen ‘Station Foot Bath’
其實當初沒料到會來泡湯，只是回程搭嵐電時剛好被L先生瞄到，問櫃檯說足湯只要兩百日元還有附毛巾，就當嚐鮮吧～沒想到我倆一屁股坐下就不想再站起來了！走了一天泡個溫熱的足湯好療癒啊⋯⋯特別在這涼涼的秋天，不小心就「錯過」幾班車了！
Never thought about we can have the foot bath in a train station! On the way back to Kyoto for the next destination, Monsieur L accidentally found t sigh of the Arashiyama Onsen Foot Bath in the Randen Arashiyama Station (Keifuku Line), have asked the station staff it’s only cost ¥200 including a towel, so we decided to try it out.
Actually it was a brilliant idea, to sit and enjoy the hot spring foot bath after walking all day long; perfect for the chill autumn afternoon and it wasn't to crowded, so we have to ‘missed’ some trains back to city…!
京福嵐電 嵐山站內
9：00～20：00 / 門票 Fee ¥200
http://randen.keifuku.co.jp/
金閣寺（鹿苑寺） / Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion)
*世界遺產 World Heritage*
本地、外地觀光客必來的打卡點之一，L先生也對這棟金光閃閃的寺廟感到雀躍不已；這回有些許楓紅妝點的金閣寺與湖畔倒影，看起來也更加迷人了。眼前的舍利殿其實是1955年重建的，因為曾發生一樁縱火案；偷聽一旁日本導遊說，下午三點多從湖的這南側拍舍利殿是最有「明信片像」的！
搭京福嵐電到北野白梅町後，出站往左手邊走就有公車站，搭乘往「金閣寺道/金閣寺前」的公車即可抵達；建議與嵐山的行程一起安排，回程還可以順道去附近的北野天滿宮，祈求智慧！
No doubt, this shining golden temple is most famous picture of Kyoto, this world famous sight also on Monsieur L’s must see list. The building itself actually rebuild by 50’s, after a monk burn it down. Now the shining temple looks gorgeous with a reflect on the pond, and decorated by the autumn colours; it says about 3pm is the best timing to photographs the Kinkakuji, you can catch the most postcard-like picture from the south-east of pond!
It’s ideal to paired with a visit to Arashiyama; take the Randen Tram (Keifuku Line) from Arashiyama Station to Kitanohakubaicho Station, leave the exit then take a left, there is a bus stop jump on any city bus to ‘Kinkakuji michi’ or ‘Kinkakuji mae’. You can also visit the Kitano Tenmangu, many Japanese students come and pray for the wisdom, it’s only 10 minutes walk from Kitanohakubaicho Station.
京都市北区金閣寺町1
9：00～17：00 / 成人 Adult ¥400
http://www.shokoku-ji.jp/k_about.html
旅遊日期 Travel dates：21~26 Oct 2014
同場加映：
☛ 自助旅行 · 京都散策DAY 3 - 嵐山 天龍寺 金閣寺 龍安寺 中村藤吉
☛ 自助旅行 · 京都散策 - 5天4夜自由行 行程安排 預算
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