京阪滿喫【上半場，京都】楓紅世界遺產，古都寺廟巡禮；稻荷山、東山走透透，伏見稻荷大社與清水寺週邊景點整理。【下半場，大阪】用周遊卡暢遊日夜，免費和服體驗；免門票優惠行程一日遊，從白天玩到黑夜超划算。
[Part 1, KYOTO] Amazing autumn colours and World Heritage Buddhist temples; visit the fantastic Fushimi Inari Shrine and Kiyomizu Temple. [Part 2, OSAKA] Enjoy this vibrant city with Osaka Amazing Pass, and free kimono experience!
遊關西必買兩票券
2 Must-Buy Ticket Package while you travel in Kansai
可在關西地區搭乘JR、地鐵、私鐵、巴士等交通工具，或購物時使用的ICOCA，以及從關西機場直接連通天王寺、新大阪、京都的關空特急HARUKA的優惠套票。
Ticket Package with ICOCA (can be used on JR, subway, private railway and bus transportation and for shopping in the Kansai Area) and discount for HARUKA (Kansai-Airport Express).
Osaka Amazing Pass 大阪周遊卡
包含觀光設施入場券以及大阪市內的電車、巴士的不限次數乘車券的優惠組合；有一日券和二日券兩種。
A sightseeing transportation ticket with admissions to sightseeing facilities and free-rides on trains/buses in Osaka City; There are 1 Day Pass and 2 Day Pass.
京都：楓紅世界遺產，古都寺廟巡禮。
在京都的天數多但沒固定行程，所以未購買周遊票券；如果你沒有要去奈良、不介意走很多路的話，可以參考我們的行程。上午從京都出發坐到JR稻荷站前往伏見稻荷大社，回程時搭京阪線從伏見稻荷站（從大社走約6分鐘）至清水五條站（步行2公里可達清水寺），然後逛逛清水寺周邊二、三年坂等景點，散步回祇園四條站、河原町覓食，吃飽還可以看看夜裡的高瀨川、先斗町跟花見小路（夏天可看鴨川川床），說不定可以跟我們一樣遇見藝伎喲。
Kyoto: Amazing autumn colours and historic Buddhist temples.
We didn't buy any sightseeing pass in Kyoto, we were more prefer just go somewhere and see what we got; if you're not going to visit Nara this time, and you also don't mind to walk a lot like a backpacker (LOL), here’s our route:
Go to Fushimi Inari Shrine in the morning, take the JR Line from Kyoto Station to JR Inari Station (next to Fushimi Inari Shrine), on the way back take the Keihan Line from Fushimi Inari Station (6 minutes away from the Shrine) to Kiyomizu Gojo Station (takes 20 minutes to Kiyomizu Temple); after the temple visiting you can also enjoy the historic Higashiyama District, then take the path down to Gion Shijo Station, see the night life of Kyoto in Kawaramachi, and maybe you can see a Gesha in the Hanami-koji like us!
伏見稻荷大社 / Fushimi Inari Shrine
不提大家對「藝伎回憶錄」劇情的爭議，而章子怡在「千本鳥居」穿梭的場景確實烙印在我和許多人的腦海裡，也成了外國旅客對京都的鮮明印象。香火鼎盛的稻荷大社為稻荷神社之首，店家商號為祈求生意興隆在此奉納一座座的鳥居，千本鳥居可說是用錢堆出來的！（鳥居奉納價目表 Price of the Torii）很多人在稻荷山腳的千本鳥居拍完照就離開，但其實越往上爬越能遠離擁擠人群，山上還有許多小神社，未上色的石鳥居、以及迷你鳥居奉納散落各處；一路上有幾間茶坊供人休憩，從山頂更能一覽伏見市區的景色。上次來的時間晚了沒能攻頂，這回起了個大早來總算讓我們爬完整座山，在山頂吃著霜淇淋看風景，也算相當不錯的經驗。（稻荷大社地圖 Map of Inariyama）
在日本隨處可見的稻荷神社，祀奉主掌農業與商業的稻荷神；而人們相信狐狸是稻荷神的使者，因此稻荷神社通常有狐狸的雕像。像稻荷大社就有超可愛的狐狸繪馬，雖然我保持理智沒有購入，但欣賞大家超有創意的繪馬畫作也是樂事之一；大社附近的商店街也有許多狐狸造型的紀念品，還有狐狸煎餅！（不過好硬啊咬不太動）
京都市伏見区深草藪之内町68
http://inari.jp/
Maybe some people like me was impressed by the scenes of ‘Memoirs of a Geisha’—the endless of Torii (shrine gates) spread in the mountain, it’s also one of the most memorable sights in Kyoto. Beside the incredible sight made by the thousand Torii, It’s also lovely to hiking up to the top, you can glance the Kyoto city from the mountain top, and enjoy the tasted ice cream after the workout.
Inari Shrine is the most popular Shrine in Japan. Inari is the god of cereals, as the role of agriculture diminished, and ensure people’s prosperity in business; the fox is the messenger of Inari, that’s why you can always find the stone foxes in a Inari Shrine. Fushimi Inari Shrine is the head shrine for other thousands Inari Shrine in Japan, many business owner came along and bought one of those Torii, as a offering to the god, make their business growth; now you probably can image that how much money have been spent in this mountain!
清水寺 / Kiyomizu Temple
*世界遺產 World Heritage*清水舞台豎立在森林裡的畫面彷彿成為京都風景代表，清水寺也不愧為京都最有名的寺廟；不過大家不再從清水舞台跳下去，而是從舞台上遠眺京都市區與下方一整片的森林。清水寺其名有自——音羽瀑布有「黄金水」、「延命水」之稱，因此清水舞台下方總有人潮排隊。而藏身清水寺地地主神社以祈求緣份聞名，如果來趟清水寺可順道來摸摸姻緣石；不過地主神社開放時間較清水寺短，要特別注意（姊就是每次都它關門才想到，無緣的姻緣石啊）。
Kiyomizu Temple is one of the most famous sight in Kyoto, the stage of Main Hall is using a traditional Japanese method of construction, it was built solidly enough to support the stage till now. In the past, people believe that you have to ‘jump from the stage’ to prove you have determination to do something, of course you can’t do it anymore! Below the hall, there’s the Otowa waterfall; it’s says by drinking the sacred waters, will bless you longevity!
羽音山 清水寺 Kiyomizu Temple
京都市東山区清水1-294
6:00~18:00 / 大人 Adult ¥300
*當季開放時間參考官網 Check the seasonal open hours on website*
http://www.kiyomizudera.or.jp/
地主神社 Jishu Shrine
9:00~17:00
http://www.jishujinja.or.jp/
東山區・清水寺周邊 / Higashiyama District
離開清水寺後，再次踏上二年坂、三年坂，往八坂神社的方向前進；許多土產店和餐廳散布巷弄中（但通常與清水寺同時間關門），沿途還有許多（帥氣的）人力車伕，是體驗京都懷舊氣氛的好所在。醒目的法觀寺八坂塔，每次路過都忍不住要拍張照。抵達高台寺時已關門，只能玩弄一下外頭的法輪、拍張紀念照。夜裡的八坂神社別有一般風味，兩人衝著亮起的燈籠猛拍，為京都行畫下句點。Between the Kiyomizu Temple and the Yasaka Shrine—Higashiyama is one of the city's best preserved historic districts, you can experience traditional old Kyoto by walking in the narrow lanes, wooden buildings. The streets are lined by gift shops, cafes and restaurants which have been runnig for tourists and pilgrims for centuries, but be aware that shops usually close early like the temples.
八坂の塔 (法観寺) / Yasaka Pagoda (Hokan Temple)
京都市東山区八坂上町388
10:00~16:00 / 大人 Adult ¥300
八坂神社 Yasaka Shrine
京都市東山区祇園町北側625番地
http://www.yasaka-jinja.or.jp/
大阪：用周遊卡暢遊日夜，免費和服體驗！
因為只在大阪待一天，懶得規劃乾脆用一日周遊卡的範例行程，我們玩得挺盡興、移動路線也滿順暢的；以下景點使用Osaka Amazing Pass 大阪周遊卡皆有免門票優惠，時間抓好的話也許還可以加入其他景點。Enjoy this vibrant city with Osaka Amazing Pass, and free kimono experience!
We only spent one day in Osaka, so just followed the Osaka Amazing Pass Day tour model, was pretty okay and we were quite enjoy it, if you have more time left maybe you can add some more sights in your schedule.通天閣 / Tsutenkaku Tower
由於前晚落腳處在天王寺，第一站來到附近極具大阪精神的地標——通天閣（一直想到柯南裡的服部平次⋯⋯喂！）。但大白天的景色實在不怎樣，整座塔又充斥著詭異的吉祥物和商業氣息，反倒是新世界店家們的誇張搞笑裝潢，更吸引我們的目光。Because we stayed in Tennoji last night, so our first stop is the nearest OSAKA landmark—Tsutenkaku Tower. The view from the top in the daytime may not that attractive, but the tower itself was full of weird mascot and commercial atmosphere, can't really say like it. But the eye-catching streets in Shin-Sekai (west of Tennoji Park) were much more interesting, especially those Japanese style shops present the the atmosphere after the WWII.
大阪市浪速区恵美須東1-18-6
9:00~21:00 / 大人 Adult ¥700
http://www.tsutenkaku.co.jp/
大阪城天守閣 / Osaka Castle Museum
鏘鏘！終於見識到傳說中的日本城堡。眼前這棟天守雖然是重建的，雄偉的外觀仍結合豐臣與德川時期的風格，內部空間則成為博物館，讓旅人可以一覽歷史文物與大阪城的興衰。從前偌大的城郭化身成為大阪城公園，不時有表演活動相當熱鬧。It was my first time to see a Japanese castle, and I got into it! Even though this castle has been rebuilt after the war, but the building exterior still present the design of two major emperor periods. Inside the castle there’s a museum, which you can glance the history of Japan and the Castle itself. The yard of Osaka Castle now become a massive park, festivals and shows are hold here during the weekend.
大阪市中央区大阪城1-1
9:00~16:30 / 大人 Adult ¥600
http://www.osakacastle.net/
大阪歷史博物館 / Osaka Museum of History
因為就在大阪城公園旁所以順道來看的大阪歷史博物館，沒想到七樓的近代展區竟然提供和服體驗，讓在日本最後一日遊的我們開心不已。雖然和服跟頭飾沒太多選擇（廢話免費耶），但志工阿姨仍會超仔細的一件件幫你穿，綁完腰帶的瞬間已呈現無法彎腰與呼吸的狀態（一旁L先生的男版和服看起來好蘇服⋯⋯）當我們整裝完畢，一位志工大叔帶我們到博物館內進行導覽，不時還會幫我們和復古佈景照相！（有點像以前台灣故事館那樣）等導覽完畢，大叔說我們可以自行在這區拍照、玩夠了再回去把和服換下來，大心～（當然也不要穿著和服亂跑或待上一整天）
Actually we came over just because it’s next to the Osaka castle park, and it was free entry with the one day pass… but, guess what, there was a free kimono experience on the 7th floor! What a generous gift for us, on our last day in Japan! Of course, there wasn't plenty choice for the kimono and accessories, at least you don't have to pay.
Those lovely volunteers have helping us to dress up, even touring us in a exhibition area and taking photo for us, after all these done, we were free to taking more photos there, and return the kimono back when we feel ok (consider others who are waiting as well), awesome!
大阪市中央区大手前4丁目1-32
9:00~17:30 / 大人 Adult ¥400
http://www.mus-his.city.osaka.jp/
HEP FIVE摩天輪 / HEP FIVE Ferris Wheel
體驗了古著的樂趣，是時候享受當代大阪了！想一睹夕陽的我們來到HEP FIVE，從梅田站步行約五分鐘，遠遠的就可以看見鮮紅色的摩天輪緩緩轉著；我們一開始還找不到路，原來摩天輪的入口在HEP FIVE百貨七樓。不過到了現場出乎意料的沒人（可能非假日），也好我們能很快速的搭上車；車廂裡還有喇叭可以放自己的音樂，就這樣悠悠地欣賞大阪暮色15分鐘（不過忙著吃東西沒手拍照）。Alright, after experience the old Japan culture, it’s time to enjoy the modern Japan! We put this spot in the evening so we can see the sunset from the wheel, it’s only 5 minutes away from the Umeda Station, and you can easily recognise it by the bright red colour. It wasn't busy so we get on the car in a short time, and it take about 15 minutes to get around; you can play your music in the car by their speak, was pretty cool.
大阪府大阪市北区角田町5-15
11:00~22:45 / 大人 Adult ¥500
http://www.hepfive.jp/ferriswheel/
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| (Source: http://www.hepfive.com.tw/) |
空中庭園展望台 / Floating Garden Observatory
接著來到同樣位於梅田的藍天大廈，從高達173 公尺的露天展望台、360度觀看大阪夜景。雖是兩人在日本看的最後一次夜景，但因為前面看了N次、連一開始會驚喜萬分的L先生都無感了（而且樓頂風好透啊）。從JR大阪站或他線的梅田站，穿過梅田地下道步行約十分鐘可抵達。Well well, here comes our last night view spot in Japan. The Floating Garden Observatory on the Umeda Sky Building, you can see Osaka in 360º from the 173m high. It was amazing to have a 360º city view, but truely, we have been seeing too much night view since we arrived Japan, so it can’t be that fresh anymore… besides, it was too windy as a outdoor rooftop observatory. You can get here by 10 minutes walking from the Umeda underpass from JR Osaka Station or Umeda Station.
大阪府大阪市北區大淀中1-1-88
10:00~22:30 / 大人 Adult ¥800
http://www.kuchu-teien.com/
道頓崛 / Dotonbori
因還得回天王寺拿行李、搶搭最後一班Haruka去機場（隔天透早飛機決定省錢睡機場），很可惜這次沒時間搭道頓崛水上觀光船了，只照了張道頓崛地標之一的固力果招牌留做紀念。It was our very last stop, because we have to go back to the hostel to get our bags, and jump on the train to the airport for our overnight flight, so unfortunately we run out of time to take the Tombori River Cruise.. maybe next time!
題外話，消失的神戶一日遊。
是說，京阪神的神戶去哪咧？原來主人翁為了吃神戶牛吵翻了⋯⋯
本人：堅持要吃最好的神戶牛！想吃的店沒預約吃不到不爽中（白目）
L先生：菜單上寫神戶牛就是神戶牛啊！你不吃我找別人去吃（白眼）
一翻兩瞪眼就賭氣分開行動了。姊此行就是為了神戶牛而來，沒吃到還吵了一架很鬱卒，加上神戶跟橫濱的相似度太高，只記得中華街和港區晃晃等天黑集合，連張照片也沒拍⋯⋯（哪有心情，嘆）
旅遊日期 Travel dates：21~26 Oct 2014
[地圖 map]
[相片集 album]
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