在澳洲打工渡假不知不覺過了半年,決定送自己兩星期的Holiday當生日禮物,預算不多所以選擇前往離伯斯不遠的新加坡與峇里島,第一次從海外到海外的旅遊就這樣開始 ——這邊分享幾間在烏布與庫塔的平價住宿與Spa給大家!
雖是獨自前往當時倒也沒想到去住Backpacker(應該去住幾天的搞不好有豔遇),出發前一個月在agoda上訂了USD$20~40的民宿與旅館,縱使少了認識其他背包客的機會,不用花太多錢就可擁有私人空間,而且這次滿幸運的都沒踩到地雷⋯⋯
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| "Monkeys" in Ubud Monkey Forest |
烏布 Ubud
烏布位於峇里島的中心,被山脈環繞、有著翠綠的稻田景觀,少了沿海景點的熱鬧紛擾,多了些寧靜與文化氣息;選擇把在島上多數時間留給烏布,除了旱鴨子對水上活動冷感外,大概也受了(中文電影看N遍了原文小說卻遲遲讀不完的)“Eat, Pray, Love”影響⋯⋯不過,我真的沒後悔選擇這裡,每天靠雙腳走遍烏布也覺得倩意(只是很熱),晴則漫步雨則找間咖啡廳坐下。烏布有許多博物館與藝廊,更有不少飯店、餐廳提供了料理課程,你也可以騎車、包車前往Green School等景點。
最重要的是烏布讓我覺得安全和友善的氛圍,雖然仍有不斷招呼的計程車司機們,景點附近商家林立、店員們向你兜售;離開鬧區後,眼裡淨是峇里島居民的日常,路過他家門孩子向你微笑點頭,即使獨自一人走在夜裡也不覺得恐怖。跟庫塔比起來,我真的覺得烏布溫暖很多。
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| The family temple of Praety Home Stay |
Praety Home Stay
如果你是獨自旅遊或是經濟型預算的背包客,我很推薦這裡。Praety Home Stay位在烏布市區的東側,我訂了他們的機場接送服務,從Denpasar Airport到民宿的費用是$250,000,約一小時的車程(由於班機抵達時間是傍晚,適逢下班時間有小塞一下)。
當時Praety Home Stay的特約司機是Wayan Sudiksa(+62 857 38170663),是位年約三十、溫和有禮的烏布人,從機場到民宿的路上拿了峇里島地圖介紹個景點(不過一個人包車旅遊對我來說太奢侈了),還跟我說明峇里島人命名方式(排行老大都叫Wayan)。在烏布還沒有像庫塔有藍鳥車隊這樣的計程車公司,通常民宿、飯店甚至Spa都會有配合的司機,我不喜歡殺價通常只透過表訂價格選擇,最後發現Spa自營的接送較便宜(在那邊做Spa包車有優惠)。
Praety Home Stay的老闆娘Praety是幾個孩子的媽,和她一樣親切的家人們也住在這裡(但不同棟建築物);這裏當然也提供了各種活動或旅遊的服務,庭院裏有個價目表的看板。會選擇這裏除了背峇里島傳統建築所吸引外,更想知道agoda review中大家讚不絕口的早餐是什麼樣子?
Praety Home Stay全部只有五間房,座落在三棟不同的建築物;這次訂的是標準雙人房含早餐(當時匯率每晚約USD$19/NTD$570 ),房間位在進門後前方左側一樓 。房門外的露台是享用早餐的位置,房內有一張Queen Size雙人床、梳妝台和兩個衣櫃,浴室非乾濕分離有浴缸,有提供毛巾、廁紙;房間的裝潢簡單(或簡陋)但乾淨。缺點是熱水不穩跟WIFI訊號差網速慢,還有房門旁的『窗櫺』是簍空的,有蚊蟲在房內也不意外;不過當時天氣尚暖而我也習慣白天沐浴,沒有網路就看看白天拍的照片、看看書,所以以上對我個人來說不算困擾。
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| Breakfast: Banana Pancake with Fruit Salad and Balinese Coffee |
早餐,每天最期待的事。Praety Home Stay提供早餐服務,從西式到峇里島是都有,每天早上到Reception(就Praety他們住的地方)索取Menu、點餐,不久後你房前桌上便擺著現做的美味餐點。第一天試了水果沙拉與香蕉煎餅搭配峇里島咖啡,媽呀!就這樣愛上了棕梠糖Palm Sugar和椰絲香氣;水果沙拉由酪梨、橘子、木瓜、鳳梨等切塊堆疊成塔佐以椰絲,從沒想過水果搭椰絲竟如此對味!至於峇里島咖啡,我個人不喜歡喝起來粉粉的感覺⋯⋯
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| Breakfast: Balinese Traditional with Fruit Salad and Balinese Coffee |
來峇里島然要吃傳統料理,早餐也不例外!連吃了幾天香蕉煎餅想換換口味,但菜單上其他料理看起還很不峇里島⋯⋯於是我問了Praety是否提供峇里島式早餐(你們早餐都吃什麼),她說就吃米飯搭配一些小菜、可能有些辣我是否能接受,我說OK她便著手準備。
這道隱藏版的料理,遂成為讓我印象最深刻的一份早餐 ;類似Nasi Campur不過沒有這麼多種小菜,有蔬菜蛋捲、咖哩雞還有不清楚是什麼香料味很重的配菜。也許西方遊客不容易接受這樣重口味的鹹味早餐,所以他們沒放在菜單裡,對我來說倒挺新鮮的。最後一天試了三明治和綜合果汁,嗯,還是煎餅跟水果塔的好!
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| Breakfast: Sandwich with Mixed Juice |
住在峇里島風的建築裏,一開房門就是峇里島人的日常生活——看他們每天在家族祭壇上香、換上新的花朵,不時聽到孩子在庭院玩耍或哭鬧⋯⋯在Praety Home Stay的日子耳裡都是峇里島語,如果再訪烏布,我想我還是會選擇這裡(如果沒錢住豪華Villa的話)。
題外話,在第一天抵達Praety Home Stay的時候,老闆娘Praety說我訂的房間因前一組客人生病臨時續住,所以希望我先到他哥哥在附近的民宿住一晚,隔天早上還是可以回這裡用早餐,當下我不是很開心但也沒得選,其他的時候住得算開心;搬去下一個住所時請Praety用摩托車載我一程(行李只有一個背包,但不想走半小時的路),約七分鐘車程費用是$15,000。
Praety Home Stay is located at east border of Ubud, you can book a transfer from Airport, it's cost Rp$250,000 and takes about one hour journey(depends on the traffic), and it's about 15mins walk from here to Ubud Market.
This tiny homestay only provide 5 rooms, owner Praety and her family were lovely, they're always smiling and friendly, truly a good homestay, but sometime you could hear the children playing or crying, if you don't mind it's really close to the local life.
The Standerd Room I booked was USD$19 per night, included a queen size bed, 2 wardrobes and a desk. Bathroom with bathtub, towels and toliet paper provide.
The room in a traditional Balinese house which was beautiful but without fully furnished in the room, so make sure you don't mind no air-con, poor bathroom and insects in your room. After all, it's still provide a good value of money.
The breakfast was AMAZING! Here offer a variety of breakfast, from Western Style Sandwich to Balinese traditional rice, you can choice different flavour every morning and enjoy the beautiful food at your balcony or terrace.
BTW, the first day I arrived Praety Home Stay, owner asked me to stay at her brother's homestay because my room was not available, the former guest was sick and couldn't check-out, it was a little bit annoying, but the rest of time I do enjoy here.
***
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| July Resort Yoga and Spa (Resource: http://sulyresort.com) |
Suly Resort & Spa
是少數我能負擔得起的渡假村,衝著有田園景觀跟免費瑜珈課程就選擇了這裏(不過上課時間太早了一次也沒參加⋯);位於烏布的東南邊距離市中心有點遙遠,有提供免費接駁車往返烏布皇宮但班次不多,最好有車或是包車不然就會像我在烈日下走到崩潰⋯ (某天受不了了,請路邊計程車行老闆從市區騎摩托車載我回來,費用$20,000)
渡假村內多為峇里島傳統建築,餐廳酒吧、泳池和Spa等該有的設施都有,公共空間有免費WIFI,著傳統服飾的服務生們也都相當年輕熱情。我訂的房間是標準田園景觀雙人房不含早餐(當時匯率每晚約USD$26.5/NTD$795),位於度假村最裡面的西式建築裏。房間空間寬敞沒有陽台, 衛浴乾濕分離有浴缸;電視、冰箱、熱水壺等一應俱全,房間內有網路孔跟櫃台拿線可免費接電腦用。不過我的房間在二樓,窗簾拉開可是會跟庭院裏的工人四目相對,可以聽到外頭蟲鳴鳥叫,但實在說不上享有田園景觀。
由於只住兩個晚上,沒有用餐或使用Spa、泳池等設施,故不贅述。整體而言,環境清幽、員工友善,如果有預算考量還是可以選擇這裏。
Suly offer good service with affordable price; located at east-south Ubud which is far away from central, resort do offer shuttle service go to and return from Ubud Palace as the timetable shows, but only few times per day so it'll be better if you have own transport.
I booked a Standard Double Rice Field View No Breakfast, which was USD$26.5 per night, but actually there's nothing to see, just a yard, and you'll hear the animals outside all day. The room was big, with a bathtub but without balcony/terrace. The whole space of resort is huge too, it took me a while walk from the gate to the reception, then the room; surrounded by the garden and nature view, not luxurious but make me feel relax.
***
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| Different type of Lulur |
Jaens Spa
經濟之旅連Spa都要斤斤計較,在TripAdvisor上發現的這間Jeans Spa,讓我沒花太多錢也能好好享受。位於聖猴森林附近的Jeans Spa,沒有豪華的裝潢卻有著平實合理的價格與服務,親切的員工、按摩師與司機,讓我一連來了三回!
每次一進店裡都可以先享用冰茶和毛巾,在正式療程前會有個簡單的足浴,接著芳療師會請你到房間裏更衣(另有寄物櫃可放置貴重物品)後進行療程,結束後可在店內稍作休息,享用水果與熱茶;而他們的冷、熱香芒薑茶,都叫我念念不忘。
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| Fresh fruits and hot ginger lemongrass tea |
Body Scrub+Mask $34,200
This sacred body ritual will renew your body, mind, and soul. Starting with a one-hour traditional Balinese massage, you'll receive a rice body scrub of your choice, a mineralizing mud mask or Balinese boreh treatment, and finish with natural yogurt application to the skin.(All treatments are followed by a Soothing aromatic, flower- filled bath.)
第一回合是兩個半小時的全身去角質+體膜護膚。幾年前我曾在一間專賣峇里島香氛跟裝飾的店工作,當時認識了什麼是真正的Lulur(不是土產店賣的磨砂膏),現在當然要到Spa體驗道地的Lulur Scrub。這裏提供了Green tea scrub、Frangipani scrub、Coconut Jasmine Lulur與Balinese Herbal Lulur,體膜則有Boreh Bali Mask與Mud Mask;在了解它們的功效與味道後,選擇了帶有中藥味的Balinese Herbal Lulur和會發熱的Boreh Bali Mask。
芳療室裏的裝潢簡單,有浴缸、按摩床、精油燈和讓人放鬆的傳統音樂。就定位後芳療師在身上塗滿Lulur——傳統的Lulur是將米磨成粉,使用時會讓粉末在肌膚上稍作停留,讓米粒內天然酵母軟化角質(像是SKII強調的成分Pitera),最後在沾點水輕推按摩,將老廢角質推除。在芳療師幫你從頭到腳按摩後,就可以到放有花瓣、精油和熱水的浴缸放鬆沐浴,等著進行下個膚體模的步驟。
沐浴後,芳療師將帶有薑成分的Boreh Bali Mask塗上,雖然已經被告知會發熱但真的好熱啊(也許冬天比較適合呢),不過一陣熱後會覺得通體舒暢,要的也就是這發汗排毒的效果。療程最後會敷上優格,在發熱體膜後感覺真像三溫暖啊,但全身咕溜的感覺真是太棒了,對我這從來沒做過Spa的村姑來說好奢侈好享受啊!
Hot Stone Massage 2Hrs $380,000
Hot stone massage is a specialty massage where the therapist uses smooth, heated stones, either as an extension of their own hands, or by placing them on the body while they massage other parts of the body. the heat can be both deeply relaxing and help warm up tight muscles so the therapist can work more deeply. the benefits are warming, relieve stress, encourages relaxation, improve flexibility and range of motion, relaxes muscle, and to increase circulation in the body.
意猶未盡的我,又訂了第二回的熱石按摩。在台灣一直對熱石按摩有個憧憬,又不捨得花錢嘗試,在異鄉渡假錢砸下去也覺得划算。不多說,此療程當然就是用溫熱的鵝卵石搭配按摩,不過不是像網路上看到石頭小小美美的擺在背上——是有大石頭壓在肩部或腰部下、小石頭在芳療師手裡不斷推動;石頭是泡在熱水裡保溫,利用石頭的熱度達到放鬆緊繃的肌肉。由於我買的是兩小時的療程,最後還有搭配傳統峇里島式按摩,對我來說是很新鮮的體驗,也很放鬆,回民宿秒睡這樣。
Biokos Natural Facial $12,000
Facial with natural ingredients to clean, refine, restore and moisturize your skin, complemented with a relaxing massage targeted at the face upper chest, neck and shoulders. Enjoy a hand, arm or foot massage during our skin conditioning mask.
最後這個療程其實是為了包車優惠才追加的 (從烏布到庫塔$225,000),也想說只剩臉沒被保養到;一個小時的臉部療程包括清潔、保濕面膜以及臉、頸、胸的按摩,敷面膜時芳療師也會提供手腳的局部按摩。其他的療程或優惠都可以參考Jeans Spa的官網,服務與價格很值得推薦,可惜忘了記下芳療師的名字啊啊⋯⋯(只記得是一位媽媽當時入行約一年多)
***
庫塔 Kuta
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| 100 Sunset 2(Resource: http://www.astonbalihotels.com/) |
100 Sunset 2 Hotel
** 27/12/2015更新: 飯店換管理團隊, 現為100 Sunset Hotel Managed by Eagle Eyes **
為了回程搭飛機不這麼趕,所以決定到庫塔區住兩天,並選了離機場不遠的這間100 Sunset 2 ;跟在同條路上的100 Sunset Boutique Hotel比起來,這間算是經濟型的商旅。我訂的是精緻雙人房含早餐(當時匯率每晚約USD$41/NTD$1,230),房間不大但乾淨且裝潢新穎,房內的WIFI是我目前在峇里島用到最快的;飯店提供免費接駁巴士到Kuta Square及Legian,自助式早餐選擇多樣、從西式到峇里島式都有。如果有考慮在機場附近過夜,這裏會是個不錯的選擇 。(補充,叫藍鳥計程車從旅館到機場的跳錶價格為$40,000)
I choiced here for last two night at Bali, because it was close to airport, only 10~15mins away from the terminal. I booked a Superior Room and it was USD$41 per night; the room is clean and comfortable, with fully furnished. The price including buffet breakfast, which offer not only Western Style but also Balinese tradition food; hotel have one-way shuttle service to Kuta Square or Legian. Overall, it's good value of money.
--- 以上沒特別註名的幣值皆為Rupiah(IDR),且為未稅價格。 ---
延伸閱讀 Read more
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烏布・峇里島十日遊 Map|美食、住宿、Spa位置一覽
店家資訊 Info
消費時間: Apr 2014Praety Home Stay
Street sukma no:22,Peliatan, Bali, Indonesia
0361 970224
http://www.praetyhomestay.com/
Suly Resort & Spa
Jalan Cok Rai Pudak Br. Yangloni, Peliatan, Bali, Indonesia
0361 976185
http://www.sulyresort.com/
100 Sunset 2 Hotel
Sunset Road Street No.100 C, Bali, Indonesia
0361 8477360
http://www.booking.com/hotel/id/hunderd-sunset-two.html
Jaens Spa
Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud, Bali
0361 971312
9am-9pm
http://www.jaensspaubud.com/










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