來日第三天，我們仍進行著東京近郊的探索，好不容易太陽願意從厚厚的雲層中露臉，把握這機會跳上江之電，到有著陽光、海岸與青春的湘南地區享受悠閒的午後。
On the 3rd day of this trip, we were still exploring the suburbs in Tokyo; finally the sun didn’t hided behind the cloud, took the chance we jumped on the Enoshima Line, enjoyed a lovely afternoon with the sun-shining coast in Kamura area.
在武士故鄉的洗錢初體驗！
鎌倉大佛、鶴岡八幡宮、錢洗弁財天
說到鎌倉，印象不外乎是武士、大佛，和那穿梭在房舍與海岸線間的江電。再次從東急田園都市線的青葉台站出發，在中央林間站轉小田急江ノ島線，再到藤沢站搭乘江ノ島電鐵線，前往離鎌倉大佛最近的長谷站。
因只在鎌倉停留半天所以沒購買江ノ島−鎌倉周遊券，回程以步行的方式前往鎌倉站，沿途順道參訪各寺廟。雖只搭了這麼一趟江電，腦海裡仍印著窗外多變的景色——上一刻緊貼著房舍、下一刻緊鄰著大海，在復古車廂享受悠閒的片刻。（完全忘了鎌倉高校前灌籃高手裡的經典畫面啊啊⋯⋯下圖為Flickr上的佳作！）
長谷站下車後往高德寺的路中，沿途滿是紀念品店、遊覽車和停車場；走了十分多鐘，終於要跟傳說中大佛見面了！⋯⋯嗯，一尊很大的佛像。當你走了一個半天，看到一座佛像插在一堆人頭的上方，雖然花了門票錢大概也不會想久留吧。就當我們拍完紀念照、感到小失落之際，當下也沒有頭緒要往哪邊走，看了一下寺內的地圖發現了一條登山步道，L先生說時間還早就來去試試看吧。
出了高德寺沿著大馬路往北行，隧道旁有一條小徑、許多人從樓梯上走下來，心想這應該就是入口了雖然沒有明顯告示。爬了一段樓梯後終於看到方向指示，原來我們身在葛原岡・大佛登山步道（高德寺－葛原岡神社），沿途行經源氏山公園和錢洗弁財天神社；最後從源氏山公園前往鶴岡八幡宮，共計約5公里的路程。秋高氣爽登山的確是不錯的選擇，路況不差也幸好當天裝備輕，便畢竟我們默默就走了一、兩個小時。
缺錢嗎？噓⋯⋯一起來這個神秘的山洞裡洗洗錢吧！鎌倉的錢洗弁財天宇賀福神社，你可以光明正大的體驗洗錢的樂趣。跟著源氏山公園的指示走過一段坡路，看見一個山洞前掛著兩只大燈籠，帶著無法抑止的好奇穿過隧道和重重鳥居，原來山壁後的洞天藏著一座香火鼎盛的神社。
神社奧宮祀奉著掌管財富、七福神之一——弁才天（宇賀福神），還有鎌倉五名水之一的銭洗水（ぜにあらいみず）；據信源頼朝曾於夢中受宇賀福神開示「供奉西北仙境的靈水與神祇，方可太平治國。」便於湧泉處修建神社，而北条時頼也曾以此靈水祈求家族繁榮。此後民間也相信用錢洗水清洗金錢，可使你的財富加倍；洗錢時建議使用小鈔或銅板，洗過的錢別留著要花掉才能錢滾錢喲！☛ 了解如何參拜（日文）
等錢洗好也乾的差不多了，是時候前往鎌倉之旅的終點——鶴岡八幡宮，幸好日本的神社不像佛教寺廟早早關門，等我們抵達時已是日落時分。整個鎌倉充滿源氏幕府的歷史軌跡，包含了這座守護鎌倉武士的八幡宮；而在佈滿蓮花的源平池上、插滿了旗子的小島——旗上弁財天神社代表了源頼朝守護商運和家運的信仰。
可惜功課沒做足，這次鎌倉之旅沒參加到免費的城市導覽；但離東京僅一小時的車程，就可以享受相模灣的迷人景致和鎌倉古都的人文魅力，下次再來趟鎌倉—江之島的輕旅行吧！
Experience the ‘Money Laundering’ in Samurai’s hometown!
Great Buddha, Tsurugaoia Hachiman Shrine, Zeniarai Benzaiten Shrine
If we talk about Kamura, the things goes thru my mind are the Kamura Samurai, Great Buddha and the ‘Enoden’ train running between houses and coastline. Again, we have departed from Aobadai Station on Tokyu Denentoshi Line, and transfer to Odakyu-Enoshima Line at Chuorinkan Station, then take the Enoshima Electric Line at Fujisawa Station, travelled to Hase Station which is the close to the Kotoku Temple Great Buddha.
We didn’t buy the subway pass cause we have only stayed half day, so we only bought the one way ticket from Fujisawa Station to Hase Station , and went to Kamura Station on feet, and the sightseeing along the way. Even though we have only took the Enoden (Enoshima Electric Line) once, but can’t ignore the various view —the train was running next to the houses, but next minute it running next to the ocean, and the cabin itself is a vintage design.
On the way to Kotoku Temple after we have got off, there were lot of souvenir shops, tourbuses and parking lots; was a bit exciting to meet the famous Great Buddha (Daibutsu), ok here we are… Well, a GREAT Buddha, that’s it? After 10 minutes walking, saw a statue of Buddha with lot of heads underneath, don't want to spend time there even have paid for the entry.
We have left for a hike after took a photo of the Great Buddha. The Kuzuharaoka Daibutsu(Great Buddha) Hiking Trail(Click the photo above to see the details) is between Kotoku Temple and Kuzuharaoka Shrine, passing Genjiyama Park and Zeniarai Benzaiten Shrine; then we walk down to Tsurugaoia Hachiman Shrine from Genjiyama Park, about 5kms in total. It was a good idea to been in the mountain especially in the beautiful autumn colour, and we were glad that we didn’t carried too much stuff.
Want to be wealthy? Shi… Let’s do the ‘Money Laundering’ in a mysterious cave! ? You can legally and literally wash your money here, at the Zeniarai Benten Shrine in Kamakura. Following the sign on the way then you will see two big lanterns hanging on the entry of a cave, be brave and go thru the tunnel, theres another world behind the rock with a old shrine.
Zeniarai Benzaiten Ugafuku Shrine is known by ‘The Goddess of Wealth’, and the holy water which is believed could bring you lucks. It says by washing your money in the spring water, could bring you more money once you have spent the blessed money. Actually the spring water is not only makes you wealthy, but also one of the famous water in Kamakura. ☛ How to do the 'money wash'?
After dried our money, it’s time to go to the destination of the Kamakura trip — the Tsurugaoia Hachiman Shrine. As the guardian shrine of Samurai, Hachiman Shrine shows the importance of it historic place; the Hata-age Benzaiten Shrine on Genpei Pond, has presented the local faith of their war hero, people offer a flag to pray for the victory of a business battle.
Unfortunately I didn’t know there were few free city tour could be joined; it only needs one hour by train or driving from Tokyo, Kamakura is really worth to see for the beautiful coastline and the historic culture, would love to be here again for a city and more temples/shrines.
[相關訊息 info]
鎌倉市觀光（Kamakura Hiking trails）
http://www.city.kamakura.kanagawa.jp/kamakura-kankou/en/
鎌倉觀光網 Kamakura INFO
http://en.kamakura-info.jp
鎌倉免費多國語言導覽 Kamakura Free City Tour
http://www1.kamakuranet.ne.jp/kwga/
高德寺鎌倉大佛 Kotoku Temple Great Buddha
http://www.kotoku-in.jp
銭洗弁財天宇賀福神社 Zeniarai Benzaiten Ugafuku Shrine
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zeniarai_Benzaiten_Ugafuku_Shrine
鶴岡八幡宮 Tsurugaoia Hachiman Shrine
http://www.tsurugaoka-hachimangu.jp
旅遊日期 Travel dates：17 Oct 2014
[地圖 map]
[相片集 album]
[東進西出 12 DAYS秋遊日本 read more]
京都 行程 預算 住宿心得 Travel Plan & Budget
明治神宮 & 橫濱一日遊 Meiji Shrine & Yokohama Day Tour
鎌倉半日遊 Kamakura Day Tour
東京打卡點 Tokyo Sights
京都 鞍馬火祭 Kurama Fire Festival
京都 時代祭 Festival of the Ages
嵐山一日遊 & 金閣寺 Arashiyama Day Tour & Golden Pavilion
京阪滿喫 Kyoto & Osaka
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